Jwojalapa!
When people think of lentils in Nepal, their minds usually jump to the comforting bowl of daal served alongside rice in our beloved national dish, Daal Bhaat. It’s a delicious and nourishing staple, the humble backbone of daily life across the country.
But here in the Kathmandu Valley, within the heart of Newar culture, the story of legumes is far richer, more textured, and deeply woven into our ritual and festive life. We have a whole universe of flavors that go beyond a simple soup. Today, I want to invite you into our kitchen and introduce you to the trinity of Newari lentils and beans that define our cuisine: the soul-warming Kwati, the crunchy Musya, and the intense Haku Musya.
This isn’t just about recipes; it’s about decoding the language of our food. Let’s explore why these aren’t just ingredients, but characters in the story of our culture.
Table of Contents
- What’s Beyond Daal? The Rich World of Newari Lentils
- Kwati (Gunpu Hni): The Nine-Bean Soup of Gods and Men
- Musya vs. Haku Musya: A Tale of Two Crunchy Soybeans
- A Simple Guide to the Trinity of Newari Lentils (Comparison Table)
- How to Enjoy These Legumes Like a True Local
1. What’s Beyond Daal? The Rich World of Newari Lentils
In a traditional Newar household, legumes play multiple roles. They are not always destined to be boiled into a soft soup. They are roasted for crunch, sprouted for vitality, and combined in complex ways that reflect a deep understanding of nutrition and flavor.
Our ancestors knew that these small beans and lentils were powerhouses of protein and energy. They figured out how to use them to mark the changing seasons, to give strength to new mothers, and to add texture and excitement to a festive platter. Understanding this trio is like learning a secret handshake—it grants you a deeper access to the heart of Newari food culture.
2. Kwati (Gunpu Hni): The Nine-Bean Soup of Gods and Men
If there is a king among Newari lentils, it is Kwati.
The name Kwati in Nepal Bhasa translates to “hot soup” (kwa = hot, ti = soup), but its other name, Gunpu Hni, reveals its soul: “nine-day dish” (gunpu = nine, hni = day), referencing the nine different beans it contains and the nine days they are traditionally soaked and sprouted.
Kwati is not an everyday food. It is a special-occasion dish, most famously eaten during the festival of Janai Purnima (also known as Gunhi Punhi), which falls at the end of the monsoon season.
What’s in it? A traditional Kwati is a medley of at least nine types of sprouted beans and lentils. This can include black gram, green gram, chickpeas, kidney beans, white beans, soybeans, peas, and more. These beans are soaked for days until they sprout little tails, unlocking their nutrients and making them easier to digest. They are then cooked in a rich, brothy soup seasoned with a symphony of spices like ajwain (jwano), ginger, garlic, and sometimes meat or smoked meat jerky (sukuti).
The Deeper Meaning: Why do we eat it then? After the long, damp monsoon, our bodies are thought to be weak and susceptible to illness. Kwati, with its incredible warmth and sprouted protein, is considered a superfood. It’s a restorative, nourishing dish that provides heat and energy, fortifying the body for the coming seasons. The steam rising from a bowl of Kwati on a rainy festival day is the smell of comfort, health, and tradition all rolled into one. Its complex, nutty, and deeply savory flavor is a taste of home for every Newar.
3. Musya vs. Haku Musya: A Tale of Two Crunchy Soybeans
Now we move from a hot soup to a crunchy snack. Musya and Haku Musya are two sides of the same coin, and they are essential components of the iconic Samay Baji platter. They represent a completely different approach to legumes.
Musya (Roasted Soybeans)
Musya refers to soybeans that have been roasted until they are hard and crunchy. They are usually seasoned simply with salt and sometimes a bit of ginger powder. Eating them is a workout for your jaw—and that’s the point.
The Deeper Meaning: As a key part of Samay Baji, Musya represents hard work and perseverance. The effort required to crunch through them is a reminder of the agricultural toil of our ancestors. It’s not meant to be easy; it’s meant to be satisfying. It provides a crucial textural contrast to the soft potatoes and spicy meat on the platter.
Haku Musya (Roasted Black Soybeans)
Haku Musya takes it a step further. “Haku” means black in Nepal Bhasa, and these are a special variety of black soybeans. They are roasted in the same way but have a flavor profile that is deeper, earthier, and slightly more intense than regular Musya. They are also typically harder and crunchier.
The Deeper Meaning: Haku Musya is often considered the more “premium” or traditional choice for Samay Baji. Its presence signifies a commitment to authenticity. The deep black color stands out on the plate, and its robust flavor and satisfying snap when you bite into it are an integral part of the Samay Baji experience. It is the definitive crunch.
4. A Simple Guide to the Trinity of Newari Lentils (Comparison Table)
To make it easier to understand, here is a simple breakdown of our three legume heroes:
Feature | Kwati (Gunpu Hni) | Musya (Soybean) | Haku Musya (Black Soybean) |
Main Ingredient | A mix of at least 9 sprouted beans and lentils | White/yellow soybeans | Black soybeans |
Texture | Soft, brothy, with a slight bite from the sprouts | Hard, dry, and very crunchy | Extremely hard, dry, and intensely crunchy |
Flavor Profile | Complex, nutty, savory, spicy, and deeply warming | Simple, salty, earthy | Deep, earthy, slightly smoky, and more intense |
Primary Role | A nourishing, restorative soup (main dish) | A crunchy side component of Samay Baji (snack) | The definitive crunchy side component of Samay Baji |
Cultural Link | Janai Purnima / Gunhi Punhi festival; a health tonic | Samay Baji; represents hard work and perseverance | Samay Baji; represents tradition and authenticity |
5. How to Enjoy These Legumes Like a True Local
- Eating Kwati: Kwati is best enjoyed steaming hot in a deep bowl. Don’t be shy about slurping the flavorful broth. It’s a dish to be savored on its own or with a side of rice. Let its warmth seep into your bones—that’s its purpose.
- Eating Musya & Haku Musya: Never eat them alone! The key is to use your fingers to mix a few beans with a pinch of Baji (beaten rice), a piece of Chhoyela (spicy meat), and a bit of pickle. The combination of the soft, the spicy, and the crunchy in one mouthful is the magic of Samay Baji.
Conclusion: More Than Just Food
From the healing power of a festive soup to the symbolic crunch of a roasted bean, the world of Newari lentils is a beautiful reflection of our culture. It shows a deep respect for the land, a sophisticated understanding of health, and a philosophy that food should do more than just fill you up—it should tell a story.
So the next time you see these on a menu or a festival plate, I hope you see them with new eyes. You’re not just looking at beans; you’re looking at a love letter from our ancestors, written in the universal language of good food.
Subhaaye! (Good wishes!)
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
1. What does Kwati taste like?
Kwati has a very complex and unique taste. It’s deeply savory and brothy, with nutty undertones from the various beans. It’s spiced with ginger, garlic, and a special herb called ajwain (jwano), which gives it a distinctive, slightly pungent, and aromatic flavor.
2. Are Musya and Haku Musya healthy?
Yes, in moderation. They are an excellent source of plant-based protein and fiber. Being roasted rather than fried makes them a relatively healthy, crunchy snack. However, they are very hard, so they should be chewed carefully.
3. Can I make Kwati with fewer than nine types of beans?
Absolutely. While nine is the traditional number for festivals, many households make a simpler version with 3, 5, or 7 types of beans for a regular nourishing meal. The core idea of using a mix of sprouted legumes is the most important part.
4. Where can I buy these special Newari lentils?
You can find pre-mixed Kwati packages in most grocery stores in Kathmandu, especially around Janai Purnima. For high-quality Musya and Haku Musya, it’s best to visit a local spice and grain shop in the older parts of Kathmandu, Patan, or Bhaktapur, such as the shops around Asan Bazaar.
5. What is the difference between Gunpu Hni and Kwati?
They refer to the same dish. Kwati is the more common name, simply meaning “hot soup.” Gunpu Hni is the more traditional, descriptive name from Nepal Bhasa, meaning “nine-day dish,” which refers to the nine types of beans and the process of sprouting them.